Building an Affordable and Portable Deer Blind

Perhaps you’ve experienced this situation before: you’ve found an excellent spot for deer hunting but are unsure of how to approach it. Maybe there are no suitable trees for a tree stand or a ground blind doesn’t offer a good enough view. Perhaps you prefer to be sheltered from the elements. There’s no shame in that; sometimes it’s better to admit it.

All signs point to one solution: you need an elevated deer blind. You could purchase a tent-style ground blind for $150, but it won’t provide the optimal view. Or you could invest thousands in a pre-made elevated blind, but the transportation and installation can be a hassle. Alternatively, you can save money and build your own.

We are Derek and Joe, two hunting buddies from Columbia County, NY, who enjoy building things. Our goal was to create an affordable elevated deer blind for around $500. We named our project the DJ Stand. Here’s how we built a deer blind that is portable and can be transported in a pickup truck.

Building a Deer Blind: Our Mission

• Buildable in a weekend with basic tools. You don’t need power tools to construct this blind, although they can make the job easier. You can finish it in time for a weekend of football if you have a chop saw and a drill-driver on hand.
• Made from $500 worth of materials from Home Depot. The pandemic may have affected prices, but we managed to keep our build under $500 by using common lumber. If you have some lumber lying around, it can save you some money.
• Portable. Like any hunter, we have an idea of where the local deer gather. However, there’s a chance we’re completely wrong. We designed the DJ Stand to fit easily in the bed of a full-size pickup truck, particularly an F-150 since it’s the most common truck in America.
• Protected from the elements. In our region, pre-dawn hunts can be freezing, and we experience strong winds. Our blind makes long sits more bearable.
• Make it badass. This blind has a sleek design that resembles the 2001 monolith and comfortably accommodates two armed hunters. What more could you ask for?

Our build is highly customizable. Our DJ Stand sits 7 feet off the ground to spot deer in the tall grasses of our wetlands. However, you can build it to sit on the ground if desired. Our version is designed for two people, but you can adjust the measurements to make it a single-person blind. Additionally, we chose black corrugated plastic for its heat retention and noise-masking properties. If you live in a warmer and drier climate, you might consider using camo netting or canvas instead. Here’s how we did it:

First, a message from the lawyers: Derek and Joe are not engineers. The DJ Stand was conceived with the help of beer, and although we have tested it and found it safe, undertaking this project may pose risks. The DJ Stand is certified to perform, but it does not have a safety rating. Build and use this stand at your own risk, being cautious and considering your abilities.

The Floor

The floor is the backbone of the DJ Stand, just like the floor of a house. We constructed it using the same techniques as a residential subfloor. If you plan to build a ground blind, consider using pressure-treated 2x4s to withstand contact with wet ground. Since our blind is elevated and we prefer affordability, we used basic stud lumber.

The 60×48″ box consists of four perimeter 2x4s reinforced by three 2×4 joists spaced 16″ apart on-center along the narrower dimension of the box. We used common nails to fasten the frame, allowing for expansion and contraction due to weather conditions. Then, we covered the frame with half-inch pressure-treated plywood to withstand moisture. The structure may be overbuilt, but it provides stability when elevated.

Cuts:

• [2] 2x4s @ 60″
• [4] 2x4s @ 45″
• [1] Plywood @ 60″ x 48″

The Walls

The walls rise from the floor, and we cut the tops at 15-degree angles to align with the roof’s pitch. The front (longer) posts should measure 78.5″ from the top of the angled cut to the top edge of the floor’s perimeter 2×4 joist (78″ to the floor). The rear (shorter) posts should measure 66.5″ from the top of the angled cut to the joist. We experimented with different methods of connecting the posts to the floor, which affects their length.

If you’re skilled with a saw and want to reduce weight, you can create a tenon at the bottom of each wall post and corresponding mortises in the corners of the floor. This strong joint allows the post to sit directly on the perimeter joists, extending through the plywood to nest securely in the corner of the box. The carriage bolt that secures the legs passes through this tenon, further strengthening the structure.

Alternatively, you can sit the posts on top of the plywood floor. For this method, cut the front posts to 77.5″ tall and the rear posts to 65.5″ tall. To reinforce the structure, add another 2×4 under the floor against the perimeter joist.

The remaining aspects of the walls resemble those in a house. We nailed the assemblies together and screwed them to the posts, creating a snug fit with some flexibility. To reduce weight and material, we didn’t use the standard 16″ on-center stud spacing. In the front, we placed a single stud in the middle. In the rear, we positioned two studs 13″ in from each outer stud, leaving a 24″ door opening in the center—wide enough for a bundled-up hunter. Our side walls lack vertical studs aside from their perimeters since we don’t need to mount anything inside like a flat-screen TV.

We ended up with three different wall sizes, but we recommend measuring between the four corner posts and adjusting accordingly to minimize gaps and ensure a stable blind. Our three walls had the following dimensions: Front wall: 53″w x 78″h, Rear wall: 53″w x 66″h, and Side walls: 41″w with a sloping top.

Cuts:

FRONT

• [2] 2x4s @ 53″ (bottom and top studs)
• [2] 2x4s @ 75″ (vertical studs) tops cut at 15-degree angles. Highest point of angled cut should measure 75″.

REAR

• [2] 2x4s @ 53″ (bottom and top studs)
• [3] 2x4s @ 63″ (vertical studs) tops cut at 15-degree angles. Highest point of angled cut should measure 63″.

SIDE

• [2] 2x4s @ 41″ (bottom stud)
• [1] 2×4 @ 75″ (front stud) top cut at 15-degree angles across the shorter dimension. Highest point of angled cut should measure 75″.
• [1] 2×4 @ 63″ (rear stud) top cut at 15-degree angles across the longer dimension. Highest point of angled cut should measure 63″.
• [2] 2x4s @ 42.7″ (roof support studs)

We included horizontal window sills 36 inches above the floor for structural stability and a place to rest a gun. We attached scraps of 2×4 to the studs and screwed the sills onto them. While we considered angling the sills downward for better water runoff, it made cladding attachment difficult. The sills also indicate where we planned to cut windows. We omitted sills from the back wall.

The size of the blocks supporting the 2x4s is not critical, as long as they are a few inches tall. The length of the sill corresponds to the gap between the studs. In our build, we used the following cuts:

• [2] 2x4s @ 24.25″ (front sills)
• [2] 2x4s @ 38″ (side sills)

The Roof

We opted for a simple single-pitch roof. It effectively sheds water and only extends on the backside to prevent water from flowing into the door and allows the blind to be laid on three of its sides without damaging anything. Since we don’t need to worry about heavy debris, the roof doesn’t provide structural support. We made one side 6’6″ tall and cut the posts and top wall studs at a 15-degree angle to create a shorter side approximately 5’6″ in height. The interior space is roomy and comfortable.

We sided the roof in the same manner as the walls. It solely relies on the top of the walls for support, and while we are slightly concerned about snow accumulation, we kept the roof as lightweight as possible.

The Skin, Windows, and Door

We debated extensively about the cladding choice. Derek preferred corrugated metal roofing due to its lightweight nature, affordability, and structural rigidity. However, Joe, being easily agitated, was worried about the noise level inside a metal box. As a compromise, we experimented with corrugated asphalt roofing material, which offered the advantages of metal roofing without the noise issue. In fact, it even helped mask some noise. Unfortunately, we discovered that it would be difficult to weatherproof due to the gaps between the peaks and valleys.

In the end, we selected corrugated plastic cladding. It is cost-effective, lightweight, and water-resistant. We chose black to retain heat and added a touch of solar heating. We secured the plastic to the frame using weather-tight roofing screws to prevent leaks. The corrugations provide additional structure, and their ridges serve as hinges for the doors and windows, saving on weight and engineering complexity.

Since precision is crucial for a seamless fit, we measured the cladding against the completed frame rather than relying on tape measures. We held the sheets against the frame, marked the intended cuts’ start and end points, and used a straight edge to connect the marks.

Working with corrugated plastic is straightforward; all you need is a straight edge and a utility knife. We positioned the ribs horizontally on the walls where we planned to install windows:

Corrugated plastic window

To create a door, we aligned the ribs vertically on the shorter side (back) of the blind.

Corrugated plastic skin on back wall and door

We sealed the seams using duct tape, a staple of field engineering.

For window operation, we used simple pulls. We tied a piece of string to the center of each window flap’s bottom edge and threaded it through a small hole at the top of the wall. Pulling the string causes the window to open, utilizing the plastic skin as a pulley system. To prevent the string from bending the flap when opened, we tied it to a small stick and secured it to a screw in the frame.

To keep the windows closed when not in use, we attached strings to the two bottom corners of each flap and fastened them to screws.

Top: Open windows on the DJ blind. Bottom: Strings hold the windows open and closed.

The blind’s exterior appearance is sleek, but handholds were lacking when lifting it into position. To address this, we attached a 1×2 piece to the front of the blind, just below the roof. This provides a convenient grip for lifting and moving.

We opted to attach the skin with the legs installed, cutting around them as necessary. A wood-on-wood interface provides stability and better weatherproofing. We created flaps to divert water and snow away from vulnerable areas, such as the legs’ end grain.

This flap over the end grain of the legs helps deflect water.

The Legs

We purchased four 10-foot pressure-treated 4x4s and didn’t trim them since we’re not building a dance floor. We extended the legs three feet up each side of the blind, elevating it seven feet off the ground.

We attached each leg using three 10-inch-long half-inch carriage bolts: two bolts on each side fix the legs above the floor, securing them to the corner 4×4 posts of the blind walls, and one bolt on each side passes through the floor’s perimeter, connecting to the most reinforced section of the frame.

Securing the legs:

Transporting It

Our blind is designed to fit in the smallest available bed of a modern Ford F-150, with the tailgate down. This truck is incredibly common and readily available for borrowing or renting. With the legs attached, it’s not safe to drive on the highway, but it can be transported on your own property or along a gravel road. Secure it tightly using straps.

The safer approach is to remove the legs for transportation. There is ample space between the bed rails and the blind to store them.

Regardless of how you choose to transport it, the blind’s design allows for easy setup from the bed of a truck. Two individuals can lift it against the cab, and once it reaches a certain point, the blind self-supports. One person should remain outside to prevent it from overbalancing. We have also successfully set it up directly from the ground.

Securing It

Once the blind is in place, it’s advisable to anchor it using guy lines. We recommend using 15″ ground anchors and tying them to the carriage bolts extending through the floor frame. Don’t merely rely on the blind’s stability because it may fluctuate with the presence of two individuals or high winds. Use the guy lines.

Securing the blind:

Other Details

We keep the door closed using a bungee cord connected to an eye hook on the blind’s underside. Once inside, we secure it with a tie, similar to how the windows are fastened when closed.

You may have noticed that we didn’t include a ladder. This decision was intentional because you likely have a ladder at home that you can temporarily lend to the blind. Introduce it early so the deer become accustomed to it.

Shopping List

We purchased all our materials from Home Depot to ensure availability to most people. If we weren’t aiming to make this accessible to the general public, we’d support local hardware stores. Shoutout to Herrington’s! Here’s a list of supplies you can acquire from Home Depot to build your DJ Stand:

SHEATHING

Note: Home Depot may not sell black corrugated plastic sheets individually, but they offer individual white sheets. If you purchase six white corrugated plastic sheets and paint them in camouflage or with a Slayer logo, you can save $75.

FLOORING

FRAMING

Extra (just in case): 3

Extra (just in case):